Le Peony clip is eminently characteristic of Van Cleef & Arpels’ style in the 1930s. Its floral theme, as well as the use of the Mystery Set technique patented in 1933, make it a central piece in the Maison’s heritage.
Composed entirely of precious stones, the peony unfolds its petals of 640 rubies in Mystery Set weighing some 100 carats, while six faceted oval rubies blossom at the heart of the flower. The leaves, adorned with 43 baguette-cut diamonds and 196 round diamonds, impart an aura of radiance and splendor.
A 1937 gouache rendering of the piece suggests that it was originally designed as a dual clip comprising two peonies, one closed and the other in bloom, to be worn together or separately. This exceptional piece belonged to Her Serene Highness Princess Faiza of Egypt, daughter of King Fouad and Queen Nazli, who treasured it in her personal collection. On November 14, 1985, Jacques Arpels purchased this clip at an auction at Christie’s, adding another jewel to the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection.
Drawing featuring the double Peony clip in Mystery Set, 1937.
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